Mia Dona

My companion and I had introduced a couple to Fiorini, and they instantly fell in love with the restaurant. So when they got engaged, we thought we'd take them there to celebrate (they love the risotto). How disappointed I was to find that Fiorini is closed on Sundays!

Fortunately, Mia Dona was open tonight. And since it was Memorial Day weekend, it was easy to get a table. I really enjoyed my light and healthful meal at this contemporary Italian restaurant, and our friends actually preferred Mia Dona's desserts to those of the more traditional Fiorini.

While we munched on fragrant roasted heads of garlic and warm tomato focaccia sprinkled with fennel seeds, we deliberated over the appetizers. (It was nice that the bread was served before we ordered, as we were so hungry we could barely make a decision.) I ended up with a delicious goat cheese ravioli in brodo; the clear broth was light and smoky with a tinge of rosemary, and its four stuffed pasta pockets lay atop a tumble of enoki mushrooms and peas. The grilled octopus appetizer was marvelously tender and featured a triple kick of black pepper, hot peppers and red pepper aioli.

Although my grilled branzino with arugula and tiny melted strips of truffled pecorino was perfectly good, I wish I had ordered my friend's choice: ricotta gnudi in truffled butter and sage. The rich dish had just the right touch of speck. Cavatelli in a tomato sauce with smoked bufala mozzarella and basil satisfied the self-proclaimed "sauce snob" in our group, and my companion ate up a rather small portion of olive oil-poached cod accompanied by clams and broccoli rabe. The fish had a nice meaty texture and benefited from a sundried tomato pesto. We also split a side of dilled beets.

Next we had some French press coffee and, of course, a celebratory dessert. The gianduja semifreddo stole the show; it arrived looking like some kind of super-decadent multi-layered nut-topped brownie. A chocolate cake bottom was the foundation for a layer of hazelnut cream and lots of cold chocolatey goodness. Other choices were blackberry sorbet, maple panna cotta with crunchy sugared walnuts, and a buttery-crusted pear cranberry crostata. But that semifreddo... it was truly an experience to remember! It was a sweet omen for our friends' union.

Mia Dona: 206 East 58th St., (212) 750-8170.